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Shops & Businesses A talk given by Mrs. Christine Higgins (January 1998) When I started my research a couple of months ago. I soon found I was completely hooked and wanted to know more and more, it was fascinating to see how the town has changed over the years. Hartland used to be completely self sufficient and around 1870's we had 32 shops, plus businesses, which were, run from peoples homes. Wherever possible I have gone back to the late 19th Century, some of the shops still exist, unfortunately most have disappeared and become private homes. As you see we have a street map and I will point out each building as I talk about it. (refer to note at end of page) First I am going to take you back 700 years to the site of the original market (possibly Hartland first shop), this used to be on a site approximately where the public toilets now stand and adjacent to the town hall. Animals were tethered to posts along the street and trestles were erected at positions around the market place. If you had a stall placed against your wall the Steward would collect a fee and the house occupier would be also paid. There was a bull pit were the small square is at the top of chapel street. It was illegal at one time to kill and sell the meat from a bull without it having been pitted against dogs. The town accounts have entries for the celebrations when a bull was baited and the cost of bringing the dogs. I have only found one entry when the bull actually beat the dogs. A new Town hall was built around the early 1600's on the position of what is now St Johns arts and music centre. The first building had the Town Hall and council offices on an upper floor and the ground floor was an open market area with positions for fish merchants, butchers and other traders. The animals were still tethered along the streets with the little calves tied in calf street (the drangway that leads down to Jamaica Press). In those days Hartland was recognised as a Borough with a Steward, who represented the Lord of the Manor, Portreeve, who was the equivalent of a mayor, a constable and a body of 12 men who ran all the affairs of the Parish. Today we have the Parish Council and The Town Trust. The Parish Council deals with the local and civic responsibilities, The Town trust is a charity set up at the end of the 1800's to manage the residue of the ancient Borough. This included the wells, Markets, Fairs, weights and measures, land, streets and houses. Incidentally the chairman of the trust being technically the Portreeve means that today's chairman, Stephen Hobbs, ought to be the Town Mayor. Going back to St John's, the medieval market ceased to operate in the 1780's and the Town Hall fell into disrepair. 70 years later being an eyesore the decision was taken to turn the building into a chapel of ease, to save the parishioners the 2 mile walk to Stoke for their compulsory daily devotions. The building was never consecrated and there was a long dispute over access and ownership of the Town Clock. Now a quick word about the cattle markets, These used to be held in the spring and autumn at the fairs, When the town market ceased they moved to a field to the North of the West Country Inn. In 1913 at a meeting held at the King Arms it was decided that a monthly market should be held in Hartland. The following year on Saturday January the 17th Messers Kivells held the first auction in South Deer Park, A field down a lane off West Street besides Mr Teagues House. Small animals were still tethered in Springfield and the larger ones driven along Colwell Street, Which is where Springfield Pottery stands. Over a weigh bridge along- side west street. Due to complaints a purpose built market was made in Town End meadows (the playing fields). The pig house was in a shed at what is now the Pavilion car park, the cattle pens were in a position up to the half way along the play area. Then there was a large weighing machine and a display ring. The west- end was all sheep pens. This market continued until 1963. While talking about general trade I must mention that Hartland Parish had a number of mills, mostly grain mills but at the Bottom of Ball hill was a tucking mill used for the treatment of woven cloth. All these businesses employed quite a number of people over the years. Just recently refrence has been found to a second tucking mill at Edistone hamlet. Now the shops and businesses. First we will go out of the village to the butchers. The Cruses have been family butchers starting in Clovelly in the 1700's. James Cruse had to leave Clovelly due to a dispute with Mrs Hamlyn and built a house at Highford, which is the closest he could get to Clovelly and called it the retreat, this was in 1916. He delivered meat all over the parish using a horse and covered wagon. Today the business is run by his great grandson Chris. Searles and we still get a good delivery service!! No 7 K.M.A. printers moved from the Square to no 7 Gregory terrace in 1995. The travelling fairs and circuses used the field in which Gregory Terrace is built. Gregory Terrace taking its name from the vicar Prebrendary Gregory. Now we are at the east end of Fore Street. No 1 'T' Cottage. 1873 John Heale - carpenter 1889 J.T. Littlejohn - carpenter and undertaker, he also did haircutting and shaving. In an advert he stated that his razors were carefully set!!. In the 1940's Mr Heard sold Rabbits and eggs No 3 Next to Small school. Joppa Jeffery sold milk, cream and eggs, he used to be seen around the Town selling his milk from two buckets hanging from a yolk on his shoulders. In springtime he would travel around and clip your horse for you. No 4 small school 1898 William Curtis, tailor. Now we go back across the street. No 8
Beech House. 1908 Walter Lock opened his bakery, grocery shop, boarding
house and tea rooms. The shop is now Hazell's front room. In a building
at the back he installed a steam bakery, the latest technology in ovens.
Reported to be the first in the south west of England. He delivered bread
and groceries around the parish in a horse drawn covered wagon. In 1930
Roger Allan married Walter Locks daughter Olive and being more interested
in engineering the business began to change. We know it today as the manufacturing
works at south lane. In 1932 he became a registered firearms dealer. Roger
can also be remembered by most of us for the film shows he used to put
on in the Church Hall.( Parish To keep the shops in numerical order I have to proceed along the south side of the street before returning along the north, the Terrace. No 19
Percy beer lived here from the 1940's and ran the local labour and rates
office. No 20 Syd Littlejohn had this as a butchers shop Then Lew Rowe
had it for Fruit and Vegetables before it became a succession of hairdressing
saloons. The last of which closed some 12 months ago. No 21 G.H.Headon
in 1923 had a Fruit and Vegetable shop and also sold fancy goods and cameras.
No 2 Heards showroom In 1873 george Burrow had a tailors shop here, Then
W.T.Westlake, boot and shoe maker started here before moving further up
the street. He used to let the children watch him work and passed around
some very strong cough sweets. Then came crippled Jack Short, so called
because he lost his leg in the Battle of The Somme in World War One. It
was also the home of Mr Fulford who was the chauffeur to the Doctor. No
23 Heards forecourt. Syd Littlejohn had a previous butchers shop here
before it was demolished to make way for the garage forecourt. No 24 In
1930 when Bill Heard married Annie Hocking they set up home in the village.
His car repair business was moved from his home farm of Greenlake and
a purpose made building was erected in the gardens of the two cottages.
These cottages were demolished to make room for a forecourt and showroom.
Later the disused Independence chapel was converted into a workshop and
the lower lubrication bay will be remembered as Sam Canns Coal Merchants
store. In 1948 with the buying of a 1933 20 seater bedford bus the coach
business was No 28
In 1873 William Curtis a wheel wright and carpenter lived here. No 31
Tom Prouse, Boot and shoe maker, Mostly sold heavy duty boots for work.
He also repaired harnesses and there always seemed to be a football in
there awaiting re-stitching. He was the last shoemaker in Fore Street
retiring in 1961. (Although Tom Nichols carried on a business at west
ball hill for a few years after Tom Prouse). A Violet Hocking rented a
room from Tom Prouse and had a hairdressing saloon. No 32 James Pillman
carrier in 1873 No 35 Handy shop This used to be a thatched building that
protruded into the street it served as a library and reading room for
a short time. Harriot Huggins had a general store for a while.This building
was demolished and the present premises built. In the 1920/40's George
Burrow ran a Carpenters shop and undertakers, later Bill Gifford ran his
building business from here. Then Gerald Thorne purchased it and his wife
Pat ran a paint and hardware shop. Later in 1982 Peter and Ruth Furze
bought it and they continue to run the Handy Shop. No 36 The Pop-in. In
1896 Fitzgerald Griffiths had a general store and in 1905 W.T.Westlake
moved from No 22 to enable him to enlarge his boot and shoe business.
He specialised in making leather gaiters or shin-pads worn by all farmers
of the day. It also continued as a Now we cross the road and journey back on the North side. No 42
In 1907 Mr Bickley was a saddler and harness-maker.. In 1932 Syd Cleverdon
open for business as a butcher, His slaughterhouse was a shed just outside
the village on the Stoke road. A further sequence of Butchers followed
with Frank Colwell then Bill Harrison who was the last he closed in 1974
No 43 Thomas Trick saddler in 1873 later Micheal Prust sold groceries.
No 43a Miss Prust used to sell cream and eggs and in 1950 Reg Hollis open
an electrical business from here later expanding into the building business
still run by his son but from Harton cross. No 44 This was the post office
in 1873 run by Joseph Buse, it was also a general store. In 1886 Fitzgerald
Griffiths installed a steam bakery and We pass across Well lane to go past the Bank No 53 In 1930/40 Mrs Rowland had a sweet and paper shop this was later run by Bill Nichols for a short number of years. At the rear Bill Stone had his riding stables. No 54 In 1898 this was Dr Hoblings surgery. I believe at this time there were three doctors practising in Hartland. Later George Cottle ran an agency for Kivells auctioneers from here and also it was an outpost of Barcays Bank. No 55 Percy Beer had a wool shop at one time also Lennie Middle ran his small holding and milk round from here. No 56 In 1873 Oliver Ellis had this as a butchers shop. Most of us will remember this as being the office for the Prudential Insurance run by Mr Jarman. No 57 In 1930/40s Rowlands the jewellers from Holsworthy had a shop here. No 58 In 1873 this was James Bright watchmaker and musical instruments. An advert I found showed he was still here 35 years later before then moving to the square. No 59 1903 J.Cook rabbit dealer. No 60,61,62 Three cottages now called Troy House, once called Bush house that is a house allowed to sell beers and ciders, without a licence, during a fair or market. They would hang a bush from a window to show they were open. This is a hangover from the medieval times No 63 Was burnt down in 1895 and not rebuilt but in 1873 John Prust bootmaker lived there. In 1880 Adam Edwards the chemist moved here from O'Donnells Now we go back to the square. No 64 Penwardens cosy corner snack bar, it was always very busy on market days. He also ran a taxi and coach business, with the vehicles kept in a garage at the top of west ball-hill, opposite the vicarage. No 65 Taylors drapers shop until 1928 when Hubert and Florrie Jeffrey moved there. They kept on the drapery business and were followed by the Rodgers, the Whites and then the Richards who closed in 1996 after changing it into a café. Passing the Doctors house to: No 67 This was Dr Sawyers surgery in 1930/40. Then Paul Minet open a second hand book store there. This was taken over in 1969 by Gordon and Monica Bayliss and became an official Ladybird clothes shop they closed after 12 years. No 69 Miss Olive Huggins dress maker and costumier. 1930/40. No 70 K.M.A started business here in 1983 before moving to Gregory terrace in 1995. No 77 The Square chip. In 1873 Phillip Kellaway carpenter, then in 1900 William Curtis and family carpenters, wheel-wrights and undertakers. Then Mr Pillman had the shop selling rabbits and eggs. At one time the Town trust had their meeting here sat on the egg boxes. Norman Westlake stored and repaired radios here before turning it into the square chip take away. No 78 1898 James Jenkins general store. No 79 W. Giffords house. Bright and sons jewellers. No 80 W. Giffords shop. In 1873 this was Mary Prusts drapery and grocery shop. In 1900 Albert Bond sold only groceries. Then in 1926 George Gifford moved here from no 44. He installed the latest ovens and opened the bakery selling bread at 8 pence a loaf and 12 cut-rounds for 4 pence. On Good Friday using a covered wagon he would deliver hot cross buns to everyone. Today the cakes and bread are baked daily by his grandson Raymond with the help of Louise Jeffery. Jean also works running the shop. Incidentally in a room along the alley towards the Parish Hall, behind Giffords came Tovey and Underwood dentists. They held a surgery on the first Wednesday of each month at 1-30pm to 4-30pm. A long wait if you had toothache from one month to another. But of course the doctor would also pull teeth for a fee. An extraction was a shilling and a set of artificial teeth started from 30 shillings a set No 81 In the 1930/50's Sam Thorne Barber. Also at the top of the square was the New Inn and the Vicarage (Perry House). No 82 Christine's ladies hairdresser in 1940. No 83 !978 Mary Cann ran a drapery shop along with groceries. This was where the bay window is on the corner. Later it became a crockery shop run by Florrie Burrows. In 1912 H.Huggins bought the shop and continued with groceries, tobacco and drapery. I found an advert for aprons, pinafores, stockings and braces. Then in 1914 The business changed to a garage. A large building was constructed over the gardens in which the repair of automobiles could be carried out. Spare parts were sold in the shop and they had the first petrol pump installed by the Shell oil company. With the success of the business they employed a nephew we all know him as taff. He has worked there for 45 years and alond with his wife Christine they took over the running after Auntie passed away. It has grown beyond Uncles dreams. This Month it has been sold and the new proprietor is Mr G Colwill. Huggins garage became a general meeting place for the local men for many years, Life not being such a rush, Uncle Bill offered a grand service in bicycle rental for many years. It was pointless being in a hurry as after making your choice of bike from the literally hundreds leaning against the wall, he would insist on giving it a full service before you were allowed to pay your sixpence for the days hire and eventually set off. When taff took over they had a grand sort out and in the rooms and lofts were found car parts going right back through the history of the automobile and all still in greased paper or their respective packing crates. These were all sold to a Mr john Leete of Bideford who sorted it out and then made a fortune selling it off at auto-jumbles. No 84 Jabez Britton Blacksmith, then also as a blacksmith came the Dayman family. No 85 This is now in Springfield place. In 1901 J.K.Jeffery bought no 85 for £250-00 and opened a general store and drapery. They also dealt in coal, corn and agricultural goods. He had two sons Hubert and Arthur. Arthur stayed on and ran the grocery side whilst Hubert moved to the square with the drapery side. Arthur also had two sons John and Douglas at the peak of the business they had 2 lorries and 2 delivery vans and were employing 10 people. One annual task was the weighing and delivery of the local Morrison charity gifts of flour and coal to the poor. Douglas's wife Gweneth also ran a dressmaking business. In 1988 the shop was sold to the Fishlock family followed by the Greens it closed for business in 1992. No 86 Gordon and Monica Bayliss first opened a wool shop here in 1967-69 No 87 J.L. Fulfords. In the 1800's this was a private school, by 1900 William Heard lived and worked from here as a watchmaker, then in1903 a Mrs burrows changed it to a grocery shop. In 1930 Jack Fulford newly married opened as Painters decorators and builder, undertakers. This is still carried on by his niece and her husband Cyril and Rita Walters. No 88 This lane is often called the drangway but is really Colwill Street. A carriers business was run from the cottage with parcels left and collected for delivery to Bideford The Leaches bought the cottage in 1979. Both Phillip and Franny having worked for various potters set up on their own, this has developed into a well known business. Phillip is the grandson of Bernard leach. No 89 In 1873 John Curtis ran a bespoke tailoring business from here. When Sir Dennis and Lady Stucley first married this was their home. Before most of the houses were built this was the position of Hartlands bowling green on which the first non-conformist sermon was preached. The whole area being drastically altered in the 1700's with the building of the coach drive through to the Abbey. No 90 In 1930/40 the Burrows had a painters and decorators shop here. Dudley Kemp told me that his garage was once the Laundry for the abbey. Then during the First World War it became a canteen for the needy. No 95 Albert Heywood was a watchmaker here. This small-walk is called thredneedle street because of the several seamstress's who used to live here. West
Street. No 97 In 1873 it was a grocers run by the Bucklers. Then it was
bought and incorporated into Jeffery's shop. Just lately it has again
become independent and is now the Darville Gallery run by George and Clare
Morgan. No 98 Percy beers wools shop. No 101 Here lived William Pooley
Hartlands last Town Crier. No 102. This was the home of the Pillman family
and the egg business was transferred here from the square. Mrs Pillman
was a school teacher. Later it became the home of Mary Norton the author
famous for the Borrower Books. No 106 In 1879 Edwin Dayman wheel wright,
carpenter and builder operated from here. Right up to 1924 No 108 1873
Richard Moore stonemason. 1890 Thomas Dayman lived here but carried on
his blacksmith business under the lime trees at the lych gate at Stoke North
Street. This was originally called Pound street because at the North end
of the street was the Town pound, approximately where the entrance to
the British legion club now stands Any stray animals would be held here
and released only on the payment of a fine. No 119 A general shop run
by Cann and Co It was also later the position of the first Fire station.
No 120 1873 John Allin blacksmith. In 1900 these two cottages were demolished
and what is now Pound Cottage built. R.Colwill and Son had a blacksmith
business here. Later Ern and Walter Redclift ran a carrier, grocery and
taxi business. Ern ran a London Black cab and it was housed in the shed
at the top of Ball hill previously used by Penwardens bus, he used to
collect me each week to take me to boarding school and fetch me again
at These are the shops and businesses I have been able to trace from the trade directories of the time. For sure I will have missed some so please all chip in and tell me any mistakes so we can keep an accurate record for the society. In general terms the shops stayed open all hours, early closing was introduced in 1897. from Tuesday july 27th the shops closed at 4 pm. It was not until 1912 that they closed at 1 pm. On Monday 11 th October Burrows and Co announced that they would be closing there shop at 8 pm on Mondays, Wednesdays and Thursdays and it was thought that others would shortly follow suite. I am personally quite pleased that the hours are somewhat reduced. I have
drawn three maps to show you: Late 19th century Early 20th century Today
Our disappearing shops-- Please support us to stop anymore from just being
part of history. I hope you have enjoyed my talk and have not been driven
to sleep. I found the research fascinating and would encourage anyone
to undertake a talk for the society. The learning track is wonderful and
you get a real feel for all those people who laboured so hard over the
years to give us what we have today. Finally I would like to say Thanks
to my husband Alan for dealing with the map and also Stephen for his help
in preparing the script and a real thanks to my cat for walking over my
first map with muddy paws. We can have our cup For those of you who reading this web page a description of the Town may help you visualise the layout. Christine has started her talk from the east end of the Town. It is a single street so far as the square. There-after it is best described as a figure eight layout of streets. Being The square to Springfield and then West Street. |