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Clovelly Dykes - "Ditchen Hills" Probably the second largest earth works in Devon - left ignored?


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This site is a scheduled monument on private land. It is sited adjacent to the main A39 road at Clovelly Cross and is almost invisible within the landscape.

What is surprising is just how little attention has been given to what is probably the second largest earthwork in Devon. Apart from an investigation by Rev Baring Gould in 1903 (see Below) All referencing goes back to two reports, one by Mr G.E.L. Carter c.1926 a copy of which was printed in the Devonian Year Book (editor R. Pearse-Chope) as well as in a small booklet format. The second is the investigation by Aileen Fox in 1952 & 1996 of 'hillforts; in the South-West in which Clovelly Dykes were included.

Other than inspection notes by the relevant authorities no further work has been undertaken to relate its history. A small private excavation was undertaken in the 1930s but no report produced, numerous flints, pottery etc have been found in the immediate locality revealed by agriculture or the work of rabbits. Clovelly upholds its village as a heritage site and promotes heavily but generally chooses to ignore the Dykes. Of course this does have an upside in that it has not been despoiled by excessive amounts of visitors or archaeologists.

Clovelly Dykes

The report by G. Carter is heavily influenced by his interest in such as Indian religions as well as looking at similarities with the labyrinth of the Minotaur on Crete. Indeed in his introduction he states ...."The enclosure lay with a south aspect on gently sloping ground. This location was not prescribed by local conditions which would have allowed accommodation to any slope, and was therefore carefully chosen with reference to the compass points and to metaphysical beliefs".... He was methodical in his approach and records the general features with some degree of accuracy. In some respects his report reflects the antiquarian views of the time.

The work of Aileen Fox is of a more general nature covering numerous such earthworks throughout the south-west. It was her conclusions that has characterised the Dykes as associated with stock controls and this has stuck for lack of further investigation.

[This image taken by Mr Cann of Hartland (photographer) dated 1900]

The earlier report bt Rev. Baring Gould states that: "Clovelly Dykes are the largest series of embankments forming a camp in Devon. History is absolutely silent concerning them. They have been somewhat interfered with about what was probably the entrance by a road being cut
through them, and by the construction of a farm and its outbuildings ; consequently the plan of the entrance cannot be definitely determined.
As far as can be judged it was raised in the 'Iron Age,' which began about B. C. 800, but may have been, and probably was occupied in times of war and trouble to a much later period. In fact iron cannon balls of the times of the Commonwealth have been found in and about it. That the original constructors of the camp employed slings has been abundantly proved by the discovery of great numbers of rounded pebbles used as sling-stones. That they also employed flint for weapons and tools is probable, for although no flint weapons or arrow heads have been found, yet a certain number of flint flakes have been unearthed, flakes struck off from nodules of silex brought from Dorset, in the construction of tools or weapons of that material. Flint would not have been brought there from a distance except for that purpose, or for use in striking lights, and the flalces^^y found were certainly not hit off in fire kindling. They were of the character usually discovered where there was a manufacture of flint arrow heads. Flint was employed for this
purpose all through the 'Bronze Age,' and also in that of iron.
The defenders of the Camp dug holes in the ground, and made fires in them. During the recent exploration one of these Are holes was discovered full of charcoal. One of the most valuable relics of an early age for determining the period to which a camp belongs is the pottery. But in excavating at Clovelly Dykes singularly little was unearthed.
Nearer the surface than the original floor were fragments, indeed, but all comparatively modern. The recent excavation of the Camp was very barren of results. This is due to the fact that for centuries the area within the dykes has been ploughed and reploughed so that the soil has been turned over
and over again. The moats must have been very deep and the banks considerably higher than they are at present. In one moat the bottom was not reached though a trench was sunk 6ft below the present surface. It was found that to form the moat the rock had been cut through.
Undoubtedly the top of the banks was originally further protected by a stout palisade of wood. Though no relics of this palisade were found at Clovelly Dykes, remains of such have been unearthed, charred by fire, in other and similar camps." Rev. S. Baring-Gould in The Clovelly Parish Magazine

No-one has considered the Dykes within their landscape which could shed new light. It seems now agreed that the entrance was on the northern face via a complex 'gated' system such as seen on numerous other works. Although Carter did show a entry on the northern side, but this gave no protection or means of access into the inner area. The position of the entrance I would suggest is due to the landscape conditions, the area is still very wet, field names abound with such as moor, mash, irish etc all indicating wet moorland conditions surrounding the works, indeed this type of ground extends south over as far what is now the Cornish border. This is also reflected in the early tracks passing through the area, so to an extent the works are protected by their landscape position making a direction of approach difficult and to an extent predictable. The inner 'rings' of the structure are loosely concentric but vary in style The very outer ring is substantial over the majority of its distance The inner two rings are similar in construction, the innermost is complete while the outer of the two would appear to be unfinished as its associated ditch was not dug from a point adjacent to the present Dyke Green farmhouse. There is now a break in the banking at this point, but if this is 'modern' rather than original is difficult to fully establish, but is not shown on the Tithe Map. Other such brakes have been made to facilitate modern farming methods and there is a question if reconstruction should take place at some points. All further 'rings' east are substantial and have associated ditches. If we now look at the two partial 'rings' (west) between the outer structure and the inner structure it can be seen that they are not of a comparative style. They represent the 'throwing up' of a bank by taking advantage of the incline in the ground, thus form an enclosure more akin to agricultural use. This would suggest a more recent adoption than the original. I see no reason, if this was wholly a stockade structure, that there was a need for such extensive earthworks on the perimeter and the inner areas without there being some form of habitation contained. Indeed it is possible to detect visually a number of platforms within the central area.

Kenwith Castle

Kenwith Castle, survey by N. Staddon (Petroc College) 202

Clovellt Dykes 1926

Clovelly Dykes 1926 from G. Carter report

If we look at the wider landscape of this area it can be seen that there are other such features in proximity. Directly north is Windbury Beacon, then south-west is Embury Beacon, both National Trust possessions. These two sites are clifftop structures diminished by erosion. [the National Trust have commissioned investigations at Embury, which is ongoing 2012]. To this we can add a suggested further structure at or close to Hartland Point and I would also add a further possible location of Dyer's Lookout area just north of Hartland Quay/Berry. On the east there are further structures on the coast plus the larger works at Kenwith Castle (see above). Inland others exist, Buckland Brewer being a substantial feature. No doubt others may be lost.

We do not have any substantial research to show early settlements in this region, although these can be discerned to a degree by study of the composition of enclosures forming modern farms. Recent investigation with geophysics indicated more than one possibility of Bronze Age occupation adjacent to the Warren at Hartland, no doubt further work would extend this knowledge.

If we return to look at these 'Hillforts' what is a common denominator with those in this locality? There are only two options being presented, those that are slightly inland i.e. Clovelly, Kenwith form some central point or hub while those on the coast could be providing some form of warning. It is noticeable that each of the coastal positions the works overlook beaches that are suitable for boat landings. On this coastline such access is a rare occurrence, the cliffs can tower upto 300 feet and are not scaleable with any ease. Therefore the positions which are the few valleys that reach the coast at low level are the only access points, possibly a defensive weakness? Embury overlooks Welcombe Mouth and covers the site line north and south. Dyers Lookout would cover Blackpool Mill beach, Hartland Point would cover Smoothlands, Windbury covers Mouth Mill. A possible site at Northway covers Bucks Mill [not a confirmed site] Peppercombe overlooks the low sandstone area of the coast.

The Clovelly Dykes site is dissected by the modern road down to Clovelly, this was created as a toll road possibly utilising an existing short cut in use over the intermediate period. The traditional access was from a track approaching from the south (A39) to Clarke's House Cross then around the western perimeter and then onto Clovelly. Obviously with improvements to the transport systems and the increased use of what is now the A39 a more convenient access was required. The Dykes site is primarily used for grazing or silage although in the recent past it has been ploughed and cereals grown. The outer 'mead' now known as Dyke Green has been developed with camping facilities and industrial style buildings for a Agricultural Contractor. A smaller area attached to East Dyke Farm is a dumping ground for waste materials and equipment. While the outer north easter area has been developed into a modern farming facility. No archaeological investigation has been undertaken on any of these areas.

In regard to preservation Clovelly Dykes is owned by The Clovelly Estate and let to an agricultural tenant. A Stewardship scheme is in place for its agricultural use and conservation. Disparate attempts by various agencies have been made over the years to maintain and control both flora and fauna on the site. Essentially the site is so large that small schemes cannot address fully the need for ongoing attention without continuous funding.

This is a very general discussion of the possibilities for an investigation - so a challenge placed!

Sat image of Dykes

To entice the professionals further this (left) image opens an argument for a far larger extent of the structure and shape of Clovelly Dykes?

A screen grab from satellite ground profile imagery shows that an extension of the 'works' existed on the north east. This has been confirmed by field walking although heavily ploughed out. So has the earthworks been undervalued in the past and would modern technology reveal further information? The Tithe maps clearly shows this line as a narrow strip of land. The modern road is an intrusion (short cut) enlarged by the creation of a Toll Road and is clearly visible in this image.

The G. Carter report can be viewed at -LINK (Text only)

 

 

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