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Clovelly Dykes - "Ditchen Hills" Probably the second largest earth works in Devon - left ignored?
The earlier report bt Rev. Baring Gould states that: "Clovelly Dykes are the largest series of embankments forming a camp in Devon. History is absolutely silent concerning them. They have been somewhat interfered with about what was probably the entrance by a road being cut No-one has considered the Dykes within their landscape which could shed new light. It seems now agreed that the entrance was on the northern face via a complex 'gated' system such as seen on numerous other works. Although Carter did show a entry on the northern side, but this gave no protection or means of access into the inner area. The position of the entrance I would suggest is due to the landscape conditions, the area is still very wet, field names abound with such as moor, mash, irish etc all indicating wet moorland conditions surrounding the works, indeed this type of ground extends south over as far what is now the Cornish border. This is also reflected in the early tracks passing through the area, so to an extent the works are protected by their landscape position making a direction of approach difficult and to an extent predictable. The inner 'rings' of the structure are loosely concentric but vary in style The very outer ring is substantial over the majority of its distance The inner two rings are similar in construction, the innermost is complete while the outer of the two would appear to be unfinished as its associated ditch was not dug from a point adjacent to the present Dyke Green farmhouse. There is now a break in the banking at this point, but if this is 'modern' rather than original is difficult to fully establish, but is not shown on the Tithe Map. Other such brakes have been made to facilitate modern farming methods and there is a question if reconstruction should take place at some points. All further 'rings' east are substantial and have associated ditches. If we now look at the two partial 'rings' (west) between the outer structure and the inner structure it can be seen that they are not of a comparative style. They represent the 'throwing up' of a bank by taking advantage of the incline in the ground, thus form an enclosure more akin to agricultural use. This would suggest a more recent adoption than the original. I see no reason, if this was wholly a stockade structure, that there was a need for such extensive earthworks on the perimeter and the inner areas without there being some form of habitation contained. Indeed it is possible to detect visually a number of platforms within the central area.
If we look at the wider landscape of this area it can be seen that there are other such features in proximity. Directly north is Windbury Beacon, then south-west is Embury Beacon, both National Trust possessions. These two sites are clifftop structures diminished by erosion. [the National Trust have commissioned investigations at Embury, which is ongoing 2012]. To this we can add a suggested further structure at or close to Hartland Point and I would also add a further possible location of Dyer's Lookout area just north of Hartland Quay/Berry. On the east there are further structures on the coast plus the larger works at Kenwith Castle (see above). Inland others exist, Buckland Brewer being a substantial feature. No doubt others may be lost. We do not have any substantial research to show early settlements in this region, although these can be discerned to a degree by study of the composition of enclosures forming modern farms. Recent investigation with geophysics indicated more than one possibility of Bronze Age occupation adjacent to the Warren at Hartland, no doubt further work would extend this knowledge. If we return to look at these 'Hillforts' what is a common denominator with those in this locality? There are only two options being presented, those that are slightly inland i.e. Clovelly, Kenwith form some central point or hub while those on the coast could be providing some form of warning. It is noticeable that each of the coastal positions the works overlook beaches that are suitable for boat landings. On this coastline such access is a rare occurrence, the cliffs can tower upto 300 feet and are not scaleable with any ease. Therefore the positions which are the few valleys that reach the coast at low level are the only access points, possibly a defensive weakness? Embury overlooks Welcombe Mouth and covers the site line north and south. Dyers Lookout would cover Blackpool Mill beach, Hartland Point would cover Smoothlands, Windbury covers Mouth Mill. A possible site at Northway covers Bucks Mill [not a confirmed site] Peppercombe overlooks the low sandstone area of the coast. The Clovelly Dykes site is dissected by the modern road down to Clovelly, this was created as a toll road possibly utilising an existing short cut in use over the intermediate period. The traditional access was from a track approaching from the south (A39) to Clarke's House Cross then around the western perimeter and then onto Clovelly. Obviously with improvements to the transport systems and the increased use of what is now the A39 a more convenient access was required. The Dykes site is primarily used for grazing or silage although in the recent past it has been ploughed and cereals grown. The outer 'mead' now known as Dyke Green has been developed with camping facilities and industrial style buildings for a Agricultural Contractor. A smaller area attached to East Dyke Farm is a dumping ground for waste materials and equipment. While the outer north easter area has been developed into a modern farming facility. No archaeological investigation has been undertaken on any of these areas. In regard to preservation Clovelly Dykes is owned by The Clovelly Estate and let to an agricultural tenant. A Stewardship scheme is in place for its agricultural use and conservation. Disparate attempts by various agencies have been made over the years to maintain and control both flora and fauna on the site. Essentially the site is so large that small schemes cannot address fully the need for ongoing attention without continuous funding. This is a very general discussion of the possibilities for an investigation - so a challenge placed!
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